Burton was an enlightened employer, committed to improving conditions for his workforce. This was a conscious departure from the sweatshop tradition that was the norm among his generation of immigrants. He appointed a welfare officer in the early 1920s, and provided meals for the workers at Hudson Road from the beginning. In later years, he would lay on the services of a dentist for his employees, at nominal charge, and an eye specialist - in recognition of the eye strain brought on by close needle-work.

His efforts were given public recognition when, in 1931, he was awarded a knighthood 'for services to industrial relations'. He marked the honour by endowing three chairs of industrial relations, at the universities of Oxford, Cambridge and Leeds.

Effective marketing, good public relations and fair treatment of the workforce made Burton a household name. L3In 1925 the firm published the first of a series of promotional brochures, Goodwill in Industry, to mark its 25th anniversary.

Burton's close attention to detail was carried through into every department. Clear instructions, for manufacturing and sales staff alike, ensured consistent high quality in both product and service.

The shops, which imitated the style of a gentleman's club, were central to the whole business. Burton was skilful in buying premises located in key areas, with potential for sub-letting as billiard halls or dancing schools - an added way to draw in customers. The shops' design changed over time, but they were always instantly recognisable.

In 1929, Burtons became a publicly quoted company. Only 10% of the shares were floated, however, and Burton retained close control of his business.

Annual reports and balance sheets show that the firm continued to make progress during the Depression years, soon dominating the country's fragmented tailoring trade. Government subsidies encouraged the firm to open new factories outside Leeds.

Sir Montague maintained a benevolent dictatorship over the business throughout his life. Even when he was away on cruises, his travel diaries make it clear that he kept in touch with the firm by telephone or telegraph - although he claimed otherwise.

A revealing memoir by Aubrey Orchard-Lisle tells us much about Burton's business life and methods.

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